Greece: Contrasts in the Cradle, Georgia Ireland, 2002


		The enjoyable aspects of travelling abroad for me are the diverse people, cuisine, museums, and cultural customs of each new destination. Having studied the art history of Greece, I was keen to explore the southernmost islands of Greece, the Cyclades. One of my favourite islands was Mykonos. Although this dry, rugged island is the smallest of the chain--16 km long and 11 km wide--travellers from all over the world come to experience the ambience and history of Greece.

There is an interesting mix of people on this island. For many travellers, Mykonos is the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. Never did I imagine encounters with so many eccentrics in what is considered the 'cradle of civilization'. Mykonos provides a broad study of human nature because of its mixture of eclectic people. The island and town are well known as a haven for artists, while the countless shops cater to jet-setters as well as more casual tourists who search for bargains in jewelry and luxury consumer goods. Drag queens, supermodels and stars from all over the world arrive here. Celebrities, the abundantly wealthy, beautiful people, homosexuals, heterosexuals, bisexuals, backpackers, even local Greeks, all enjoy Mykonos.


		In contrast, there are orthodox priests who walk about in long, black robes that "swish-swish" as they dust the cobblestones. You may see an old man greeting suntanned vacationers as he leads a donkey laden with vegetables or flowers. You'll see fishermen leaving the harbour in the morning and returning in the afternoon. Mykonos has superb beaches, excellent nightlife, and fashionable boutiques. You can sunbathe nude or topless on some of the most beautiful beaches in Greece. The best places to swim and enjoy the sun and clean waters are located mainly on the south side of the island, where the wind is calmer. The beaches are equipped with umbrellas and sun beds, and there are plenty of restaurants and snack bars so you won't go hungry. If sea and sun are not enough to entice you, the medieval houses in Mykonos Town, the folklore museum, or the nautical museum might interest you.

You can take a 20-minute boat ride to explore the ruins of ancient Delos - the birthplace of the gods Apollo and Artemis. Delos was the religious capital of the Ionians in 1,000 BC. Delos' greatest period was in the third to fourth century BC, when the tiny island had a population of 20,000 and was the chief financial center and slave market in the Mediterranean. In 1872, the French School of Archaeology began excavating on Delos, a massive project, considering that much of the island's one square mile is covered in ruins. The work continues today.
Getting around the island is easy. Many visitors rent a car or motor scooter to explore the beaches and towns. You can visit Little Venice, built directly on the sea and designed in the 16th century as a gigantic maze to confuse marauding bands of pirates. Today, the pleasant, narrow, cobble-stoned streets of two-story whitewashed homes and shops confuse tourists, rather than pirates. The brilliant white cubic houses with their window boxes bulging with bougainvilleas and geraniums, built close together one on top of the other, give the impression of being indoors. Intermingled with the homes and shops are a large number of churches and chapels.

Mykonos Island reportedly has over 350 churches and chapels (some estimate 500) on the island. Even in the midst of a quiet area of back streets you'll come across a restaurant, candy shop, or boutique. If you explore the many passageways on the island, you will eventually come face-to-face with the pelicans. These birds--the mascots of the island--are enormous and history tells of pelicans inhabiting the island since at least the 1950s.
Overlooking Little Venice from a nearby hill are the famous Mykonos windmills, echoing a time when windpower was used to grind the island's grain.


In the evenings, you can stroll along the streets, people watch, intrigued by the aromas of meats, fish and vegetables being cooked outdoors at the tavernas. I can still smell the traces of seared lamb - expensive perfume - cigarette smoke - sweet wine - marijuana - roasting eggplant... Mykonos is a charming island, set against the backdrop of sandy beaches and the cobalt blue Aegean Sea. Whether you choose to dance until dawn at discos, explore the many museums, or take it easy on a beach, Greece will leave you with enduring memories. Whatever your mode of travel, or whatever floats your boat, this is a destination worth visiting.

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